Monday, May 31, 2010

KOREK HARIAN YAMAHA JUPITER Z 130cc

Aplikasi korek mesin bukan hanya berujung pada penggunaan motor di lintasan balap a.k.a Circuit, juga ga harus bikin motor wajib ngandang di bengkel mulu karena emang udah ga bisa dipake harian, dan terus menerus di riset untuk perkembangan dan maintenance. Yang satu ini korek mesin untuk Jupiter Z dipake ngampus oleh sang empunya.
Pinky Jupie...
Pinky Jupie...
Korek harian bisa saja  dibatasi oleh rasio kompresi dan bahan-bakar yang akan dipakai, karena pilihan di pompa bensin cuma ada premium untuk kompresi 9 : 1 hingga pertamax plus yang kuat menahan kompresi 11:1, tapi untuk part lain bebas dan tidak ada aturan mau seberapa ekstreme hehehehee…
Piston KAZE
Piston KAZE
Seperti yamaha jupiter z yang satu ini, modif pertama yang disasar adalah meningkatkan kapasitas mesin dari 110cc menjadi 129cc yang ditempuh dengan cara menebus piston Kawasaki Kaze oversize 1.75. Agar masih dapat digunakan sehari-hari maka liner bawaan pabrik pun dilengserkan dan diganti dengan boring milik Kawasaki Kaze, hanya saja panjangnya perlu disesuaikan dengan milik Jupiter Z.
Kelar menata rasio kompresi, maka selanjutnya menyasar pada diameter porting intake yang reamer sebesar 22mm agar mampu diajak berlari penuh tenaga di putaran mesin 10,000 RPM. Noken As pun tak luput menjadi sasaran modifikasi, dijadikanlah noken as racing jupiter z dengan durasi ditentukan 282 derajat dengan lift 8.1mm untuk intake dan 7.9mm untuk exhaust.
Noken As papasan
Noken As papasan
Knalpot menebus punya bang Asep Hendro dari AHRS Factory tipe lama, CDI cukup mengandalkan CDI Digital Varro. Sebagai pengunci ubahan modifikasi dipilihlah karburator KOSO 28mm untuk mendampingi keseharian kuliah. Kalau diselah, duh bunyinya bikin ribut satu kampung huekkehheueukeek… :)
Knalpot Asep euuyyy..
Knalpot Asep euuyyy..
Sebagai pendukung penampilan cover body dilengserkan dan diganti labur warna pink -kesannya Gay banget ya hehehehheh sorry bro no offense- katanya biar keliatan centil motornya tapi begitu di gas Garang! Yaaahhh… mirip si Susy yang imut dan centil tapi kalo lagi marah bisa jadi Susilo! Huakakakakakak
Pokoknya tetap sehat tetap semangat biar bisa Gas Polll…!!!
Spesifikasi teknis : Porting inlet 22 mm , porting exhaust 20mm, Piston Kawasaki Kaze, Klep inlet dan exhaust Honda Legenda, Camshaft Vega papasan, Rocker arm Vega Lama, Pir Klep Suzuki Shogun, knalpot AHRS dimodif ulang, kampas kopling Honda Grand, pir kopling Yamaha RX-King.
source:http://ratmotorsport.wordpress.co

The Different Types of Motocross Racing

Trail Adventure : The Different Types of Motorcross Racing

Author: Lydia Quinn

Motocross and dirt bike racing is as popular as ever, all over the world. Let's take a look at the many different types of motocross racing that are popular these days :

Freestyle

Trail Adventure Freestyle

Freestyle motocross is sometimes also known as FMX. The main difference between freestyle and regular motocross is that riders try to gain points from judges based upon tricks that they perform. Tricks may include the 360, backflip, underflip, frontflip, carolla, scorpion, tsunami and sidewinder, among dozens of other tricks. There's also different types of landings and take-offs. One handed, no handed, side saddle, you name it. Famous freestyle motocross riders include Carey Hart and Mike Metzger.

Supermoto

Trail Adventure Supermoto

This type of motocross racing began in the 1970's as a fun side project for motocross racers. Supermoto is a type of race where motocross bikes that are meant to ride on dirt are modified so that they can compete on pavement, as well as dirt. The track for a Supermoto race consists of both dirt and pavement. The bikes must have special tires with specific types of grooves that can handle both pavement and dirt tracks during the same race.

Enduro

Trail Adventure Enduro

Enduro is a type of off-road race with different challenges and obstacles included. There's often several stages and the bikers race against the clock in a timed trial as well.

Trials Motocross

Trail Adventure Trials Motocross

This is a more straightforward type of time trial race. Motocross bikers race on a dirt track and they are timed. So instead of tricks or jumps, the focus of the race is purely to get the best time or to beat the best time.

Hillclimb

Trail Adventure Hill Climb

A hill climb motocross event is exactly as it sounds. Riders must go up a hill and try to get the fastest time. In some cases, the race may be to see who gets the farthest up the hill in a certain amount of time. Hill climb motocross is also called hillclimbing.

Supercross

Trail Adventure Supercross

Generally, supercross is a term used to describe an event, usually taking place in a large stadium, fairgrounds or arena that has installed an artificial and temporary dirt track. The track would consist of jumps as well as obstacles. The type of motorcycle used is a very high performance, specially outfitted bike made specifically to handle the high jumps and sharp turns that are typical of the event. Recently, there have been events that used temporary tracks that were modified to take place in smaller arenas such as basketball and hockey arenas.

ATV Quad Motocross

Trail Adventure ATV Quad Motocross

This type of motocross is not for motorcycles but for ATV's or Quads, also called All Terrain Vehicles. The bike has four wheels and special frames and tires that are built for dirt racing.

Sidecarcross

Trail Adventure Sidecarcross

This sport with a funny name is also called sidecar motocross. A sidecar is attached to the bike where a passenger will stand. The passengers job during the race is to provide a counterweight. The sport has declined in popularity in recent years, however.

Source: http://trail-adventurer.blogspot.com/2010/01/different-types-of-motorcross-racing.html

Modifikasi Monoshock Scorpio tanpa “Conrod”

Monoshock Yamaha Scorpio menggunakan sistem "monocross" seperti sticker yang tertempel pada Rear Arm (Swing arm) nya. Memang sangat beragam sistem monoshock yang digunakan oleh beberapa produsen motor. Diantaranya, sistem "Unitrack" seperti pada Kawasaki Ninja, mulai Ninja 150 hingga Ninja 250. Pasti masing-masing punya kelebihan dan kekurangan.
Tulisan ini tidak membahas ke arah tentang plus minus nya sistem, namun hanya ingin "share" tentang perpaduan 2 sistem antara Monocross Yamaha Scorpio dan Unitrak Kawasaki Ninja. Bagaimana yah ???? ……………
arm-n2501
Upaya ini berawal dari modifikasi Yamaha Scorpio menggunakan Swing Arm Ninja 250. Notabene swing arm N250 ini mampu mencaplok ban hingga ukuran 170/60-17………mantabkan, hehehehe. Bandingkan dengan swing arm standar scorpio yang sudah "ngap2an" dijejali ban 130/70, itupun sudah sangat tipis beberapa mili dari bibir swing arm.
Swing arm N250 punya dimensi lebih lebar dan kokoh ini. Konon menurut produsennya, dimensi arm Ninja 250 memiliki ukuran senada dengan motor sport Kawasaki sejenis untuk kapasitas mesin dibawah 600cc. Pemasangannya pun tidak sulit, panjang as nya hanya selisih kurang 4 mm dari Arm Scorpio. Hanya tinggal ganjal ring ketebalan 2mm kiri dan kanan, plus membuat bushing untuk as arm, karena as arm ninja lebih besar dari Scorpio. Setelah siap, langsung terpasang deh di Scorpio. Mudahkan?,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Saat dapat copotannya, Swing arm ini memang sudah berikut Unitrak tanpa monoshock. Namun sewaktu diukur dimensinya unitrak terlalu besar dan kepanjangan. Sudah dipastikan sulit untuk dipasang di Scorpio. Inilah yang menjadi tantangan bagi Bro Apit, Mekanik YSCI yang coba putar otak.
Ikuti terus ulasannya memadukan Monocross dan Unitrak hingga Conrod pensiun dini………………………..
Hasil godokan otodidak, ternyata menjadikan dia menjadi pemikir ulung. Hasil oretan-oretan dan ukurannya ternyata membuahkan hasil. Swing Arm bisa terpasang dengan sempurna dan sistem perpaduan Monocross dan Unitrak dapat bekerja maksimal tanpa kendala. Monoshock tetap bermain empuk dan tidak ambles.
Tanpa disengaja saat browsing di internet, hasil oret2an sang mekanik ternyata sama persis yang digunakan oleh YAMAHA XT 250. Kontruksi ini lah yang digunakan:
REAR ARM COMP - YAMAHA XT 250
rear_arm-yamaha-xt250
Lihat Gambar
Part no.11: Di Yamaha Scorpio, part no.11 ini berbentuk ARM RELAY (AR).
Part no.17: Di Kawasaki Ninja, part no.17 disebut LINK unitrak
Apit Ndut sebutan sang mekanik, ternyata oret2an re-design AR-nya mirip seperti part no.11. Namun bentuk AR original masih dipertahankan hanya menambah rumah bushing dibagian bawah yang biasanya dijadikan tempat Conrod terpasang. Lihat gambar Swing Arm Yamaha Scorpio. Part no. 13 Arm Relay, dibuat rumah bushing baru yang dipasangkan pada lubang baut no. 24
REAR ARM COMP - YAMAHA SCORPIO
Yamaha Scorpio Mono Cross
Conrod (CR) langsung dipensiunkan, digantikan oleh LINK UNITRAK (lihat gambar Part No.17 pada Swing Arm Yamaha XT 250).
Setelah terpasang inilah hasilnya:
link2-no-cr2
Link UNITRAK dibuat dari besi dengan ketebalan 6mm, dianggap cukup kuat dan kokoh. Kelebihan Link ini adalah lebih simpel ketimbang bentuk CONROD yang menyerupai kacamata itu. Kalo ingin membuat buritan lebih nungging, tinggal membuat Link ini lebih pendek beberapa mm saja.
Setelah puas terpasang, si Apit ketuk2 jidatnya pake jari yang berlumuran gemuk, sambil berujar…."Pak Haji, Arm Standar Scorpio bisa juga neh saya rubah tanpa Conrod seperti ini, siapa yang mau coba yah ???"
Perpaduan Monocross dan Unitrak akhirnya membuat CONROD PENSIUN DINI….
Atau mau coba aplikasikan Unitrack ala Vixion, See Picture:
REAR ARM COMP - YAMAHA VIXION
rear-arm-vixion
Selamat berkreasi menyalurkan hobi ngoprek…………tinggal mengucapkan bye bye Conrod
PANDUAN BUDGET:
a. Kalo masih andalkan Arm Relay Standar Scorpio plus buat Connecting Rod ala Ninja, budget sbb: (Estimated)
  • Re-build Arm Relay: Bubutan Rp.80,000 - 100,000
  • Bearing Bambu 2pc @Rp.24,000
  • Connecting Rod (LINK) 2pc: Custom Besi Plat Ketebalan 6mm @Rp.25,000
b. Sedang trial menggunakan Unitrack Yamaha Vixion, spare parts yang diperlukan sbb:
  • 3C1- F2210 - 00 Rear Shock Absorber V-ixion Rp.336,000
  • 3C1- F217A - 00 Arm, Relay V-ixion Rp.124,000
  • 3C1- F217F - 00 Rod Connecting V-ixion Rp.12,000
By. Eagle1
Workshop Bengkel YSCI, Jl. KS Tubun III No.2 A Ph. 021 5481467. Model: YAMAHA SCORPIO 2005 Modifikasi Menggunakan Kaki-kaki Kawasaki Ninja 250.

Crash Course in Crash Prevention

ATV and dirt bike accidents can result in serious injury or even death. We’ve all seen the headlines. It is a story we hear all too often. However, most of the more common reasons for these accidents can be avoided by following just a few simple rules and suggestions. ASI Safety Course
The first thing to consider when buying an ATV or dirt bike is enrolling in an ASI safety course. This is an excellent way to educate yourself and is now required in many states. The good news is that when you purchase your new vehicle, most manufacturers offer a certificate to take the course for free. The even better news is a lot of them will even give you cash back to take the course! If you didn’t buy your vehicle new, there is still a chance you can get a free course if the previous owner didn’t take it. Even if in a worst case scenario, you have to pay for the course, it is still a lot less expensive than a trip to the ER!
Safety Gear
Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned rider, you always need to wear the recommended protective gear. If you haven’t had some sort of accident while riding, you just haven’t been riding long enough because you will. They happen to the best and worst of us. Always be prepared for the accident, so you can enjoy the ride again and again.
For ATVs, the minimal recommended safety gear includes a DOT approved helmet, ankle high boots, goggles, long pants, long sleeve shirt, and gloves. If you are riding a dirt bike, add a chest protector to this mix.
Vehicle Check
Check your vehicle before heading out to the trail to make sure it is in proper working order.
Brakes: Test the brakes to make sure they will stop the vehicle but are not sticking when you use them. Check the brake fluid, also.

Throttle: Make sure it turns or moves freely and returns completely to off position when released.

Loose Cables: Check for loose cables or wires and repair as necessary.

Shifter: Like the brake, you need to make sure it moves freely when you engage it and returns to the correct position when released.

Tire Pressure: Be sure all tires have the manufacturer’s recommended tire pressure. Improper tire pressure can cause poor handling and even make your ATV feel “out of alignment.”

Gas: Make sure you have sufficient gas for the trip you are planning to make before you hit the trail. There are not a lot of gas stations along the trail.

Chain or Belt: Check the drive train belt or chain and make sure it is secure and not to loose.

Fluids: Top off all fluids. As with any motor, running out of something like oil is never a good thing. Check for leaks as well as this can be a sign of a problem.

Headlights: If headlights are provided on your vehicle, make sure they work properly before you “go too far before it gets dark.” Night riding takes on a whole new meaning when you have no lights to even find the trail.

Loose Nuts or Bolts: Nuts and bolts can be jarred loose at any time during riding. Check each time before you head out to make sure you do not have any loose screws of any kind, on your vehicle, that is.

Loading and Unloading
Always be aware of the tail signs.
Combination of Terrain
When using ramps, make sure they are approved for ATV & dirt bike use and attach them securely to your vehicle.  A loose ramp can kick back and end your day before you even leave your driveway.
Securely fasten your ATV or dirt bike to your trailer or truck. Even a ¼ ton ATV will bounce around a lot more during transport than you might think.
Most OHV parks have loading ramps, but many state parks do not. Always be prepared with ramps of your own if needed.
Controls
Learn the controls of your vehicle before going out on the trail including throttle, brakes, gear shifter, steering, and how to use your posture to maintain vehicle stability.  Never ride above your experience level. Take it slow and become familiar with your vehicle before hitting the trail.
Follow manufacturer’s guidelines concerning passengers, age restrictions, and vehicle limits.
Terrain
Know your terrain and make sure you are riding in an ATV or OHV approved area.
Familiarize yourself with a map of the area before heading out. Watch trail signs carefully and stay within your limits of trail difficulty. Even on the easy trails (usually marked with green blazes), you can run into some difficult areas where you need to slow down and proceed with caution. On the more difficult trails, expect steeper inclines, deeper routes, narrower trails, sharper turns, bigger whoops, deeper water crossings, more challenging rock croppings, and a variety of other obstacles.
Learn specific techniques for the terrain you will be riding (i.e. mountainous, rocky, sandy, dunes, mud, water, snow, or ice).
Always be especially careful anytime you have to cross over any roads or highways. ATVs do not handle very well at all on paved surfaces.
Maneuvers
Speed control is the number one safety concern.
Use a lower gear along with steady braking, to control speed when going downhill. You also need to lean backwards on your vehicle to help control the center of gravity.
When going uphill, lean forward and maintain a steady speed to prevent shifting which can cause stalling or a wheelie, as both can be very dangerous on a steep incline.
Whenever possible, traverse slopes at an angle. Transfer as much of your weight as possible to the upper side of the vehicle.
Whenever riding over rough terrain, it is sometimes helpful to stand up on your vehicle. Always keep your knees slightly bent to allow for shock absorption without damaging your knees. Standing up puts your weight on the bottom of the vehicle lowering the center of gravity to help prevent turnover.
Never put your foot on the ground when riding an ATV.
Buddy System
Always ride with a friend and let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return. If all else fails and you do have an accident, at least someone will be there with you to help.
Final note
Never use alcohol or drugs when operating an off-road vehicle.
source: http://etgears.com/site/

Freestyle Motocross Tricks

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Tricks are the bread and butter of freestyle motocross riders. Basic freestyle motocross tricks include no footed can cans, heelclickers and nac nacs while more advanced maneuvers range from saran wraps to kiss of deaths as well as backflips.  
Freestyle

Can Can: Takes one foot off footpeg and bring it over the seat so that both legs are on one side of the bike. For additional style points, land in the Can Can position.

Cliffhanger: While in the air, stands straight up and catch the underside of the handlebars with toes. Place hands above in the rollercoaster position.

Coffin and Lazy Boy: For the coffin, extend legs in front of bike below the handlebars and lie back on the seat as far as possible. For the lazy boy, release the handlebars and extend arms back over head. More points are scored the farther the arm and leg extension.

Dead Body: Place body over the front of the bike while holding the bars and keep entire body horizontal with the bike.

Double Grab: Grab the back of the motorcycle with both hands while extending the body off the back of the bike.

Fender Grab: Bend over the front of the handlebars and grab the fender with both hands. Score more points by placing helmet against the fender and pointing the bike straight up and down.

Heart Attack: Point both legs pointing straight up in the air while performing the superman.

Indian Air: Extends and cross legs during a trick in a scissor motion.

Kiss of Death: While in the air, position the bike as close to vertical as possible then kick legs up above head.

Nac Nac: While leaving the jump, whip the bike sideways, remove front leg and swing it around behind the bike to the other side. Look back for additional points.

No Footer: Remove both feet from pegs when landing.

Nothing: Remove both hands and feet when landing.

Rock Solid: Perform the Superman Seat Grab, release the seat and extend both arms away from the bike so that the bike is completely detached. Grab the seat and remount the bike after catching enough air.
Source :  http://etgears.com/site/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48:freestyle-motocross-tricks-&catid=27:tricks&Itemid=44

Bore-up Kawasaki KLX 150S menjadi 200 cc!!!!



Kawasaki KLX 150S seperti bebek atau skubek Yamaha. Sangat modifable, trik bore up sangat sederhana “Masih menggunakan stroke standar saja bisa 200 cc,”

Terlihat dari blok silinder KLX150. Posisi antar lubang baut silinder sangat berjauhan. Memungkinkan untuk menggunakan trik mengganti boring dengan yang lebih gede.Karena Posisi antar lubang baut silinder sangat berjauhan Sehingga bisa dipasangi seher 70 mm,” .

Jika menggunakan piston 70 mm bisa caplok punya Yamaha Scorpio dan pasang bos untuk pin piston. Maklum pin piston KLX150 hanya 15 mm, sedang punya Scorpio 16 mm. Dengan piston 70 mm dan stroke standar 54,4 mm bisa menghasilkan kapasitas silinder 209 cc.

Namun jika menggunakan piston 70 mm dirasa kelawat gede. Bore x stroke selisihnya sangat jauh. Dikhawatirkan mesin tidak imbang. Namun sah saja bagi yang mau nekat.

Lebih aman caplok piston punya Honda Tiger standar yang diameternya 63,5 mm. Masih menggunakan stroke standar, kapasitas silinder bisa 172 cc.

Namun untuk sementara riset yang low alias aman saja. Sementara baru pasang piston 60 mm dengan stroke standar. Kapasitas silinder hanya meningkat 153,7 cc. Cukup lumayan dibanding standar yang hanya punya volume bersih 143,6 cc. Berarti naik 10 cc.

Dalam main bore up,Bisa pasang piston 60 mm keluaran Thailand untuk variasi Yamaha V-xion. Tapi tersedia pin ukuran 15 mm. Sehingga pas dipasang di KLX150.2489bore-up-klx150-(4).jpg

Enaknya lagi klep standar KLX150 sudah lebar. Klep in dan ex sekitar 28/25,5 mm. Cukup mumpuni untuk main bore up.

Desain kem standar juga sudah gendut. Kalau diamati sepertinya overlap klep sangat besar. Karakternya seperti motor balap.

Namun sayang, karburator KLX150 seperti punya Mio. Menggunakan karbu model vakum dengan ukuran venturi hanya 24 mm.tapi setelah bore up bagusya pakai karbu 26-28 mm model skep biasa.

Jika mau lebih enak lagi ganti klep gede. Bisa aplikasi merek EE yang aslinya untuk Mitshubishi Evo. Diameter payung klep isap 31 mm dan buang 25,5 mm.


Atau kalau mau lebih murah bisa pakai klep milik Honda Tiger. Namun konsekuensinya harus ganti bos klep dan mengubah posisi sudut bos klep.
Selamat mencoba semoga sukses !!!!

Sumber : www.otorend.info